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CurlyToes Photography

Knowlton Church I

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Knowlton Church is a unique 14th Century church that is built in the centre of an earlier pagan earthworks. It stands out in the countryside in Dorset although once upon a time it was the centre of a busy market town of which there is now no evidence. The town was wiped out in the plague and although the church continued to be used it was ruined when a roof repair failed. This photo is lit by moonlight from a three-quarter moon. For those astronomers (or astrologers) out there, you can see Aquila the eagle on the left (starting from the three stars forming a band, the brightest of which is called Altair) and to the right, the mighty constellation of Hercules. The bright star at the top is Vega of Lyra.
Posted 10:20pm Sunday, 16th October 2005
Camera Model NameNIKON D70
Shooting Date/Time2005:10:15 23:21:32.90
File TypeNEF
LensSigma 17-35 f2.8
Shutter Speed30
FlashNo Flash
ISO Speed200
Focal Length17.0mm (35mm equivalent: 25.0mm)
ExifTool Version Number5.53
File Size5332KB
File Modification Date/Time2005:10:15 23:21:34
File TypeNEF
Mime Typeapplication/unknown
Camera Model NameNIKON D70
Date/Time Of Last Modification2005:10:15 23:21:32
Jpg From Raw Start131072
Jpg From Raw Length837810
Y Cb Cr PositioningCo-sited
Subfile TypeFull-resolution Image
Image Width3040
Image Height2014
Bits Per Sample12
CompressionNikon NEF Compressed
Photometric InterpretationColor Filter Array
Strip Offsets969124
OrientationHorizontal (normal)
Samples Per Pixel1
Rows Per Strip2014
Strip Byte Counts4490360
X Resolution300
Y Resolution300
Planar ConfigurationChunky
Resolution Unitinches
CFA Repeat Pattern Dim2 2
CFA Pattern 22 1 1 0
Reference Black White0 255 0 255 0 255
Shutter Speed30
Exposure ProgramManual
Date/Time Of Digitization2005:10:15 23:21:32
Exposure Compensation0
Max Aperture Value2.8
Metering ModeSpot
FlashNo Flash
Focal Length17.0mm (35mm equivalent: 25.0mm)
File System Version2.10
ISO Speed200
White BalanceAuto
Focus ModeManual
Flash SettingNormal
Flash TypeUnknown
White Balance Fine Tune0
Exposure Difference3.0
Preview Image Start8112
Preview Image Length22972
Flash Exposure Compensation1.0
ISO Setting200
Flash Exposure Bracket Value0.0
Exposure Bracket Value0
Tone CompAuto
Lens TypeD
Lens17-35mm f/2.8-4 D
Flash ModeDid Not Fire
AF PointCenter
Shooting ModeSingle-Frame
NEF Curve 1(Binary data 4160 bytes, use -b option to extract)
Color HueMode1a
Light SourceNatural
Hue Adjustment0
Noise ReductionOff
NEF Curve 2(Binary data 1412 bytes, use -b option to extract)
Red Balance2.08929
Blue Balance1.57143
Lens Data Version0101
AF Aperture2.8
Focus Position5
Focus Distance13.34 m
Lens IDUnknown Nikkor or Sigma D
Lens F Stops7.00
Min Focal Length17.3mm
Max Focal Length35.6mm
Max Aperture At Min Focal2.8
Max Aperture At Max Focal4.0
MCU Version28
Effective Max Aperture2.8
NEF Thumbnail Size1520 1008
Sensor Pixel Size7.8 x 7.8 um
Serial NumberNo= 20032c6b
Shutter Count3246
Image OptimizationNormal
Vari ProgramUnknown
User CommentUnknown
Sub Sec Time90
Sub Sec Time Original90
Sub Sec Time Digitized90
Sensing MethodOne-chip color area
File SourceDigital Camera
Scene TypeDirectly photographed
Custom RenderedNormal
Exposure ModeManual
Digital Zoom Ratio1
Focal Length In 35mm Format25
Scene Capture TypeStandard
Gain ControlNone
Subject Distance RangeUnknown (0)
Shooting Date/Time2005:10:15 23:21:32.90
TIFF-EP Standard ID1 0 0 0
CFA Pattern[Blue,Green][Green,Red]
Image Size3040x2014
Jpg From Raw(Binary data 837810 bytes, use -b option to extract)
Preview Image(Binary data 22972 bytes, use -b option to extract)
Scale Factor To 35mm Equivalent1.5
Circle Of Confusion0.020 mm
Depth of Fieldinf (3.67 m - inf)
Hyperfocal Distance5.05 m
David - I am impressed that you got an evposure of the ruin and the stars together - how did you do this?
Thanks for the comment, Ian. It was lit by the moon, so it required a long exposure which brought out the stars too - a dark sky helps. It was actually quite dark and hard to see out there. I used a masked selection to tweak the curves on the sky to make it a deeper blue which did bring out the stars a bit better.
great night shot David - seems fitting for the subject.
Um, I love this shot. It is brilliant. Was it taken in complete darkness (besides the moon). I ask becuase as mentioned, I have tried this before but focussing in the dark is nigh impossible. How do you go about this as the ruin is pin sharp. Don't say "set at infinity" because I don't have that symbol on my standard 28-80mm kit lens. Loving the light.
AF Photography
So that's the secret for making sure there's no one else around! Isn't it a bit spooky creeping around a church at midnight though. It's a great shot David, it amazes me how the camera can pick up every drop of light (and colour!) when we're almost stuggling to see the camera. Is the pinkish glow on the horizon likely to be light pollution or the faint remains of the susnset?
Adam, unfortunately it's light pollution, but it adds a splash of colour which I quite like.
Tobias: Infinity is almost certainly when you turn the focus indicator towards the 55 [telephoto] end (if you have the 18-55mm lens). In fact, I don't set at infinity but just before it at another mark I have on my lens that identifies the hyperfocal distance - the focus point that give maximal depth of field. I find it amazing that Canon thought it would be a good idea to leave the distance markings off the lens!
Excellent. I really like this.
Very nice long exposure, have to get out and do more of these when the weather clears up a bit. Im really impressed at all the constellations you always seem to know too.
David Kapp
This is one really strong point of digitals. You can shoot the long exposures until you know you've got it right. Now that I'm shooting film, I realize that this is going to be a huge learning process for me. My light meter doesn't work in that low of light, so I'll have to get something more suited for that kind of work. My trials (guesses) so far have been failures :(
Excellent shot - and although the star effect is slightly surreal, it isn't so "out-there" to make the shot look unreal. David... whenever I'm shooting long-exposure film, I tend to bring my digital camera with me, and use that as an excellent interactive low-level light meter. So take a few exposures with the digital, and then shoot with the film camera. Even a point n shoot camera will do, if it'll let you set manual controls and has bulb mode. Just keep in mind the "reciprocity failure" effect of film - google for this and you'll get lots of info. Put simply, a 30 second exposure in the perfect world may take 35 seconds using the film, as it becomes less sensitive the longer it is expose. Hope this helps - and great shot, Curly!

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